We’re almost there - and it is the season when people dine out and indulge and meet up with family and friends to enjoy all the traditional fare of Christmas.
With that in mind I thought I would look through the Perter Graham Portfolio and highlight some stand out wines which would make their experience that bit special, whilst marrying well with classic seasonal dishes of the period. I have highlighted these with reference by both to a classic menu offering and by individual food item.
But to start may I make a few observations and recommendations regarding wine and the making the most of this time of year.
- Feel confident to increase your number of wines by the glass – you can always cut these back in the new year
- People generally trade up and indulge more – again offer better quality wines too by the glass
- Make formal suggestions to people about which wine will work best with seasonal fare – your Peter Graham Wine’s reps can assist in this process
- Make sure you are offering seasonal demand lines eg
- Champagne (as well as Prosecco of course)
- Port (with the cheese) – people will drink port at this time of year even if they haven’t throughout the year
- A dessert wine with Christmas pudding, cake, pies, and desserts in general
- Fuller bodied and richer red wines
- Make sure your staff are well versed in these offerings and can hand sell if required
Onto Menu Categories
Starters (in general), Nibbles – the Classic Sharing Plate – and Hams in general
These range dramatically in styles and flavours, but one thing that should link them all together is that they are often savoury. Candidates and flavours often include pastries, cured meats, smoked and cured fish, vegetables and pickles This is not usually a natural area for red wines but worth thinking about rosé wines for sure. In general, white wines which are crisp and unoaked work best (one exception is if the canapé is itself well smoked then an oaky wine can work well). Sparkling wines and Champagne are classic partners but a dry and refreshing white wine can work just as well. If the nibbles have a gentle spicy note than be bold and go for more exotic wines, such as a Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, or Albariño. Good, examples from Peter Graham:
Sparkling:
The Vispo Allegro Prosecco is a sure-fire crowd pleasing winner that also works well with these sort of platters. For a bit more weight and a treat splash out on the exquisite Taittinger Brut Réserve NV – a Chardonnay led blend which has real class and freshness
White
Two terrific examples which are both popular drinks but also ideal with the platter mix – Picpoul de Pinet l’Ormarine– often refereed to as “the Chablis of the South” with its crispness and melon/stone fruit notes: then the benchmark Allan Scott Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc with those punchy green fruits, passion fruit, and zest
https://petergrahamwines.com/p/21-lormarine-picpoul-de-pinet-selection
https://petergrahamwines.com/p/21-allan-scott-sauvignon-blanc
Rosé
And a rosé to finish with and let’s keep it classical with the Mimi Breban (pale) Provence, with red berry and watermelon burst of flavours
https://petergrahamwines.com/p/20-provence-rose-mimi-vin-breban
Traditional Turkey
And can you have red wine with Turkey? Yes!
Good quality, free range turkey can be mildly gamey and depending on how it has been cooked it can work surprisingly well with a light bodied red, as with a (more obvious choice) dry white wine. And don’t forget that the “trimmings” often come with a salty and tangy edge to them (eg sausage, bacon, stuffing).
Also, if you are doing traditional bread sauce (with clove studied onion as its base) you are adding dairy and soft spice notes. In general for white avoid anything that is heavily oaked as this will conflict with these flavours. Equally you want a white which has some weight, punch and fruit. Regarding a red, opt for a lighter bodied red, which is fruity but not too tannic – and serve it cool (10 minutes in the fridge) as this lifts the whole profile if the wine with the food
It’s Christmas so for whites go for the classic white Burgundy Chablis from the outstanding Domaine William Fèvre.Bone dry, mineral, with fine notes of apple and stone fruit
https://petergrahamwines.com/p/19-chablis-william-fevre
Pinot Noir is the wine for turkey and the Dalrymple example is from Australia and Dalrymple in Tasmania which is rapidly acquiring cult status in Australia for this grape. With light tannins, bright soft red and berry fruit flavours and touch of savouriness it is spot on
https://petergrahamwines.com/p/19-pinot-noir-dalrymple
Roast Beef (also Game (including Goose and Duck) and Lamb)
Many people opt for this British classic. With its savoury richness, fibrous texture and infused fat it will come as no surprise that a dry, fuller bodied, more tannic red is a strong recommendation. And please don’t worry if you are not usually a fan of this style, because the dry tannins merge perfectly with the fatty richness and protein texture, to elevate the pure savoury character of the beef – whilst the soft fruity character of the wine is also elevated by the absorption of the tannins: result - a perfect marriage. And this applied to Lamb and Game dishes too.
Two great options – one Old World, one New - a classic from Italy and the ever popular Malbec from Argentina. The San Felice Chianti Classico has rich red fruits, a savoury touch, and polished tannins.
https://petergrahamwines.com/p/19-chianti-clasico-san-felice
the Mendoza Malbec Caoba has bold black fruits with a touch of spice – hits the bull’s eye as a pairing.
Fish (Pescatarians)
It is easy to forget that several fish and shellfish are in plentiful supply and at their best in the winter. And at Christmas smoked salmon is seasonal favourite.
I think the recommendations are quite straightforward – always white wine and unoaked and crisp for plainly cooked fish, richer, maybe oaked wines with fish with butter based sauce; and certainly a richer white with smoked salmon.
So, a classic, old favourite for all white fish and especially shellfish is the fashionable Galician Albariño from Torres Pazo das Bruxas Rías Baixas – with its clean, crisp style and flavours of citrus and stone fruit
https://petergrahamwines.com/p/20-torres-pazo-das-bruxas-albarino
For richer, oily, and smoked fishes the Viognier grape is a fine partner – here from the Limari Valley in Chile and the Tabali Gran Reserva Viognier which has a fine texture and notes of dried apricot and citrus.
https://petergrahamwines.com/p/19-viognier-tabali
Vegetarian
Because to the lighter texture of most vegetarian dishes these lend themselves towards lighter wines, which can include rosés and reds of course. With char grill vegetables then you can be bolder and oaky with the wine – due to their “toasty” character.
A lot also depends if you are using pastry and/or eggs – e.g. making a tart – as this means you can serve a richer and fuller bodied white – maybe even gently oaked. This is especially so if you have a gratin (cheese) element such as with an onion and cheese flan. The stronger the cheese element the bolder the wine choice can be. In general, though, I would avoid dry and tannic red wines – they tend to sit aside from many vegetarian dishes.
Certain wines and grapes work well with specific dishes. To take a couple of examples for a mushroom risotto Pinot Noir is a brilliant pairing; with asparagus the Viognier grape works well.
A final note on the ever-popular beetroot. With its firm earthy notes and fleshy texture, it is difficult, but not impossible. I think the Grenache (or Garnacha in Spain) makes a very good and savoury partner here.
So, to a couple of contrasting suggestions – one lighter and very fruity, one fuller and savoury – both are gregarious and flexible with numerous dishes.
The dry German Solitar Riesling from Prum is an increasingly fashionable style these days with its bright citric fruit, fine acidity and lighter body – very good with lighter dishes, salads and crudités
https://petergrahamwines.com/p/20-riesling-trocken-solitar-prum
The organic Côtes-du-Rhône de Fleur is savoury, with red currants and a touch of spice – very good with char grilled veg, beetroot, and mushroom.
https://petergrahamwines.com/p/cotes-du-rhone-organic-reserve-de-fleur
Cheese
Another must have for Christmas! The paradox of cheese is that for all its dairy richness the very product is itself has a crisp acid edge. Whilst many enjoy a dry red wine with cheese, I tend to still favour a sweeter style to accompany. And again, the stronger and richer the cheese the bolder and sweeter the wine.
There are paradoxes – Sauvignon Blanc (from New Zealand, Chile, or The Loire Valley) does work surprisingly well with soft and light goat’s cheese.
But you cannot beat a glass of port with cheese and Grahams is one the finest Houses in the Douro. Their 10-year-old Tawny is rich, sweet, with raisin fruit and touches of caramel.
https://petergrahamwines.com/p/grahams-10-year-old-tawny-port
If you find port a little “heady” then try the excellent Californian Cline Cellars Late Harvest take on the Rhône grape Mourvèdre – lovely black fruit jam notes, nicely savoury and works well with chocolate.
https://petergrahamwines.com/p/17-cline-cellars-late-harvest-mourvedre
Christmas Pudding & Seasonal Desserts
And a final note on the seasonal favourite – The Christmas pudding and favourites such as Christmas cake, mince pies etc. I feel you can go for a hedonistic treat and the luxurious and very sweet PX Sherry from Fernando de Catilla – which drinks like liquid toffee laced with Christmas pudding fruits
https://petergrahamwines.com/p/classic-pedro-ximenez
a general and elegant “go to” for all other desserts is the classic Sauternes from Château Villefranche - with notes of Seville orange marmalade, honey, and vanilla custard – very good with fruits, meringue, and pastries.
https://petergrahamwines.com/p/19-sauternes-chateau-villefranche-half
On behalf of everyone at Peter Graham Wines, I hope you have enjoyed the blogs this year and have a very happy Christmas.
Nick Adams mw
