Peter Graham Wines have recently made a significant investment in expanding their portfolio of American wines - and now have a highly impressive selection. So much so that I thought it was time to look at this country and its wines – not least as it is so much in the news right now. And, as ever, I will highlight some pertinent examples for your business and wine list.
When looking at American wines you are drawn instinctively towards thinking about California, which is understandable as it easily the most well-known and accounts for 90% of the country’s total production. But Peter Graham have expanded their range into the other key – and increasingly important area for Pinot Noir – Oregon, so I will look at that too. In addition, I will recommend some value for money which are well worth considering for your wine by the glass options.
You can see from the satellite shot that the Central Valley is flat and long (parts of it are below sea level) and here searingly hot temperatures mean that growers have no issues with ripening or fungal diseases. This is the ideal growing region for good, bulk production and specialised sweeter wine examples. These inland areas are also good for growing grapes which thrive in hot areas and produce wines of richness, bold fruit and flavours – not least their home-grown speciality Zinfandel. In some areas the hottest and driest temperatures on the planet have been officially recorded. Irrigation is essential and winemakers here say that is takes 318 gallons of water to make 1 gallon of wine!
Nearer to the coast wine regions enjoy the cooling influence of the cold Pacific Ocean and in some areas the famous fog bank which drafts in shore and importantly cools down warmer inland vineyards (please see pictures further down).
California in a Nutshell
- The state is 1.7 times the size of the UK
- Vines were first introduced in 1680
- Wine production grew steadily and flourished until Prohibition (1920-33)
- State produces 90% of all US wines
- Today there are over 6,000 growers and 4,200 wineries
- There are 427,000 acres under vine stretching for over 700 miles
- There are 4 main districts – the first two are where most of the top wines are made
- North Coast – including Napa, Mendocino, Sonoma
- Central Coast – Santa Cruz, Monterey, Santa Barbara, San Luis Obispo
- South Coast – the least important
- Central Valley – very important commercial area for bulk wine + Sierra Foothills and Lodi for Zinfandel
Enz Vineyard Zinfandel, planted 1895, in Lime Kiln Valley on California’s Central Coast; part of the Turley Old Vines cuvée – please read on. Zinfandel is the same grape as Primitivo which is grown in Southern Italy by the way
The Gold Rush of the mid-19th Century – along with an influx of Chinese immigrants - helped launch the regions of Sonoma and Napa and the first commercial winery – Buena Vista – opened in Sonoma in 1857 followed by names such as Inglenook and Schramsberg, and Beaulieu.
Phylloxera in the mid to late 19th Century was a problem but unlike Europe California bounced back quickly by grafting onto American rootstock – by the beginning of the 20th Century over 300 different varieties were grown, but the skew was very much towards classical white and black European – mainly French - (international) varieties.
The Prohibition 18th Amendment in 1919 was a disaster – vineyards were uprooted and cellar contents destroyed – some survived by switching to table grapes, grape juice and sacramental wine! When repealed in 1933 only 140 wineries remained. It took until the 1960s for the industry to recover when producers such as Mondavi, Stag’s Leap, Heitz, Ridge emerged and gained international recognition boosted in 1976 by the bicentennial celebrations and the famous “Judgment of Paris” tasting where several Californian wines outscored First & Second Growth Bordeaux and Grand Cru Burgundy!
Prestige wineries and labels emerged which took the state to another level such as Stags Leap (Cask 23), Screaming Eagle, Harlan Reserve – all Bordeaux based red blends which command as much money as top Classed Growth Bordeaux. Bulk production also established California as a leading international supplier lead by names such as Gallo (the single biggest winery in the world!) and Blossom Hill. Along the way the production of “Blush”/Rosé (medium dry) Zinfandel – something of a misnomer when referred to by Californians as “white” – became a vital commercial bulk line – both for domestic and export sales.
Topography
All the finer wine growing area are found along the coast from Mendocino in the north to Santa Barbara in the south near Los Angeles. Here the cold Pacific Ocean provides vital moderating influences along with the use of higher altitude plantings
This is strikingly brought home by the development and movement of dense fog in San Francisco Bay and inland into vineyards as far as the Napa Valley which has an important cooling and regulation effect
The famous fog – here forming in San Fransico Bay and moving inland towards the Napa Valley
AVAs – American Viticultural Areas
Since 1980 276 AVAs have been approved of which 154 are in California – these are roughly the equivalent of a European PDO/AOC.
The Styles of Wines That Make California
Apart from its success with Zinfandel, California has built an enviable reputation for high quality white and red wines based on classic, mainly Franch, varieties and regions. Coastal and cooler regions such as Sonoma, Carneros, Santa Barbara have all excelled in crafting high quality Burgundian styles Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Warmer regions such as Napa Valley and Santa Cruz (to the south) have created world class Bordeaux blends to the classic, mainly “left bank” formula based on Cabernet Sauvignon blended with Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot. And increasing focus in now being paid to Rhône varieties such as Syrah (Shiraz), Grenache, and Viognier. Paradoxically, the one international variety they have never really engaged with is Sauvignon Blanc.
The other success story is their approach to making high quality sparkling wines to the Champagne model – so much so that Champagne houses such as Taittinger and Louis Roederer have invested directly in California. Using time honoured Champagne disciplines and lead grapes Chardonnay and Pinot Noir they are turning out some highly impressive wines.
Which leads nicely to the first selection – the outstanding Domaine Carneros 2020 from Carneros. This is teasingly like Champagne and the ultra-cool Carneros climate and Taittinger expense really shows through – very stylish.
Domaine Carneros by Taittinger 2020
Founded by the family behind Champagne Taittinger, Domaine Carneros was established in 1987 when Claude Taittinger bought a 138 acre parcel in the heart of Carneros. Since 2020, CEO Remi Cohen has ushered in a new era at Domaine Carneros, with Zak Miller having overseen sparkling winemaking since 2008.
100% of the fruit comes from their six estate vineyards in Carneros comprising 400 acres today. Carneros is the ultra-cool region at the northern end of the giant San Francisco Bay, perfect to grow classic Champagne grapes to make sparkling wine. 62% Pinot Noir 38% Chardonnay, 9.8g/lt dosage, 3 years lees aging.
Nice and toasty with bright citrus and stone fruits long and elegant.
https://petergrahamwines.com/p/taittinger-domaine-carneros
Regarding still wines let’s look at four highlights which showcase two classic Californian Burgundy styles and, of course, we must champion a benchmark Zinfandel (blend).
David Ramey Chardonnay Russian River Sonoma 2020
David Ramey is one of California’s most distinguished winemakers, who founded the business in 1996 with his wife Carla. Working for over 20 years with renowned winemaker Cameron Frey, David was christened as “Professor Chardonnay” by The Wine Spectator. He brings both a highly focused but also sensitive approach to his winemaking
Made from 6 different sites in the cool climate Russian River region (reflected in the modest 13.5% abv) grown on loam and marl soils. Hand harvested and fermented in French oak barrels (10% new) with indigenous yeasts followed by lees aging and stirring for 12 months (in other words the classic white Burgundy model). This epitomises the Californian take on the classic Côte de Beaune model and challenges many producers from that revered region head on.
Dry, creamy and textured with fine stone fruits, light toasty oak and a measured richness. Wonderful food wine.
https://petergrahamwines.com/p/david-ramey-chardonnay
Au Bon Climat – Santa Barbara Pinot Noir 2020
The late, great Jim Clendenen in his Santa Barbara Pinot Noir vineyards – a true pioneer of New World Pinot
Au Bon Climat (“ABC”) was established in 1982 by Jim Clendenen, after, aged 21, travelling in France he “discovered life beyond tacos” and in 1981 the turning point was working a harvest in Burgundy. He never looked back. He became obsessed with producing cooler climate, high quality Pinot Noir (and Chardonnay) to the Burgundian model – and in just 40 years the reputation of ABC is firmly established as one of the New World’s best – let along California. Jim realised that the unique topography and microclimate in Santa Barbara was the perfect backdrop for the production of high quality Pinot Noir grapes in particular. The main valley in Santa Barbara runs east to west and (like a straw) sucks in the cool Pacific air (and some fog) to create an ideal microclimate for the growing of high quality Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes.
Sadly, Jim died in 2021 – far too young at just 68. He had already thought ahead about the next period of transition at ABC and had put together a “dream team”, headed by winemaker Jim Adelman, so the future and legacy are assured.
To quote ABC,
“He mentored many, influenced even more. Jim was essential in elevating the quality of Burgundian varietals on the Central Coast, and key in generating international recognition of Santa Barbara County as a world class wine region. He never rested on his laurels. He never lost his passion for wine, life, or wearing loud T-shirts”.
Sourced from 3 vineyards and hand harvest, ferment in small lots, daily manual punch downs, and aged in François Frères French oak barrels for 8-12 months. This is very Burgundian in style with that lick of red berry ripeness increasingly found now in warmer Burgundy years. Savoury, long, and medium boded with gentle tannins.
https://petergrahamwines.com/p/au-bon-climat-pinot-noir
Ridge Vineyards- Santa Cruz – Lytton Springs 2021 Sonoma
Founded in 1885 when Italian ex pat Osea Perrone bought 180 acres at the top of the Monte Bello Ridge. He planted vineyards and built the winery and in 1892 made his first release. Post prohibition William Short bought the abandoned winery and replanted Bordeaux varieties (mainly Cabernet Sauvignon).
By the 1960s Monte Bello (first commercial release in 1962) was gaining serious reviews and in 1964 they made their first Zinfandel. In 1966 Geyserville Zinfandel blend was first made and by the end of the 1960s they were making 3,000 cases pa. In 1969 the legendary Paul Draper joined as head winemaker, and he oversaw the modern era and full renaissance of Ridge – and with it Monte Bello establishing itself as a world class wine. But he has a much passion for Zinfandel as any Bordeaux varietal and believed that the vine worked best as the lead component in a blend.
Lytton Springs Zinfandel Blend Sonoma 2021
Named after Captain William Litton who developed the springs for water sourcing in the 19th Century. Grapes sourced in and around Dry Creek in Healdsburg Sonoma – Zinfandels are around 115 years old on poor gravel and clay soils. The first vintage was 1972. Today, there is a separate Lytton Springs winery (from 1996). The blend comes from 38 different parcels incorporates mainly from nearby Alexander Valley Petite Sirah (Durif), Carignan, and a small amount of Mataro (Mourvèdre) – occasionally a little Alicante, Cinsault, and Counoise as in 2021. Each varietal is fermented separately with natural yeasts.
All winemaking is overseen by Shauna Rosenblum.
72% Zinfandel, 15% Petite Sirah, 9% Carignane, 2% Alicante Bouschet, 1% Cinsault, 1% Counoise - 100% US oak new (17%) 2 to 5 years old.
Ridge Vineyards Head Winemaker John Olney (right), Lytton Springs Winemaker Shauna Rosenblum, and Assistant Winemaker Michael Bairdsmith
https://petergrahamwines.com/p/ridge-lytton-springs
Turley
By contrast Turley is a Zinfandel specialist, and most of their wines are made from parcels of genuinely old vines and predominantly, or exclusively, Zinfandel.
With sites in Paso Robles, Amador, and Napa, Turley was founded in 1993 by Larry Turley, then in the Napa Valley. Today, under the direction of winemaker Tegan Passalacqua, Turley now makes 47 different wines from over 50 vineyards across California, primarily Zinfandel and occasionally a little Petite Syrah (Durif), with many vines dating back over a hundred years. By farming organically and focusing on old vine vineyards of these varieties, Turley aims to both create and preserve California’s unique winemaking culture.
The Old Vine Zinfandel 2021
This is made from over 20 different vineyards in Napa, Sonoma, Mendocino, Lodi, Contra Costa, Amador and Paso Robles. The youngest vines in the blend are 50 years old, the oldest 130! The wine is 95% Zinfandel with a remaining blend of Mataro, Alicante Bouschet, Petite Syrah, Grenache, and Cinsault. Fermented with indigenous yeasts and aged in 90% used French oak barrels and 10% new for 12 months.
https://petergrahamwines.com/p/turley-wine-cellars-zinfandel-old-vines
These two wines make for a lovely contrast – there is an intensity and smooth, juicy more-ishness about the Turleywith the classic old vine Zinfandel style with a rich, jammy notes of cherry liqueur, raspberries and touch of liquorice. The Lytton Springs – with its Rhône led field blend varieties – has all the above but with an elevated spicy and vanilla note with a touch more tannin. Both are outstanding examples of this home-grown grape.
Oregon
The next State north of California, Oregon has grown grapes since the 1840s but it was only from the 1960s that any worthwhile production was made. However, in that short time it has – and especially from the coastal AVA Willamette Valley – built a worldwide reputation for high quality Pinot Noir. By 1970 there were 5 wineries farming 85 acres now there are an incredible 1,116 and 37,000 acres under vine. With loess, fossilised marine, and volcanic soils combined with a moderate climate the conditions are excellent for high quality Pinot Noir culture in the Willamette. The variety accounts for 66% of all plantings. Next in line is Pinot Gris, then Chardonnay. Total average annual production is now 5.5 million cases.
Domaine Drouhin
This famous Burgundian house was one of the first outside of America to invest in the Willamette when the legendary Robert Drouhin founded the estate in 1987. He quickly placed his daughter Véronique in charge of winemaking which she has continued to do to this day. They now farm 135 acres and produce a range of blended and single vineyard Pinots along with some Chardonnay.
It will come as no surprise then that as a renowned producer of top quality red Burgundy that they should bring their expertise and touch to Oregon. Their wines have a precision and definition which is a clear half-way house between Old and New World.
The Domaine Drouhin wine is made from vineyards in the Dundee Hills and has bright red fruits, a silky texture and a touch herbal. The oak is measured 12-14 months with just 20% new. The Cloudline is a younger vine selection and is one of the best value Pinot Noir in the NEW World – full of vitality and bright cherry fruit and so easy drinking with just a dusting of oak.
Great Value for Money PGW Californian Wines
Whilst top examples from America are never cheap their pedigree is undisputed, and they deserve a place on all serious wine lists. What is so good about the PGW American portfolio is they offer both classic examples with those which are priced and designed to offer excellent value for money and by the glass opportunities. The four below are good examples.
The Grace Bridge Pinot Noir is made by the Scotto Cellars family run business and is a blend from cooler sites in Monterey and Sonoma with a lick of oak – really supple, red fruits and a smooth easy drinking style.
Fog Mountain Merlot comes from cool climate sustainably grown North Coast vineyards. Medium bodied, there is a lovely plum and black fruit juiciness to the wine with soft tannins which makes it an ideal BTG option.
Wente Morning Fog Chardonnay – made from cooler climate Central Coast vineyards, this offers a ripe stone fruit lead Chardonnay style with a touch of citrus and lightly toasted vanilla oak. Wente are a long-established family one winery based in Livermore some 30 miles from San Francisco near the coast.
Finally, the Twisted House Blush Rosé Zinfandel delivers the medium dry, low alcohol, watermelon and soft red fruits easy drinking style which remains appealing to many drinkers looking for an informal and relaxed drinking experience.
https://petergrahamwines.com/p/grace-bridge-pinot-noir
https://petergrahamwines.com/p/fog-mountain-merlot
https://petergrahamwines.com/p/20-chardonnay-morning-fog-wente-estate
https://petergrahamwines.com/p/twisted-house-blush-zinfandel
With all the work the team have done to elevate their American range I would encourage you look at it and discuss the options for your list with your PGW rep. These wines have so much to offer on all fronts, and I heartily recommend them.
