We are all very familiar with wines from Australia and to think that it was only in the late seventies and early eighties when they took the British retail market by storm with brands which included Wallaby White, Kangarouge, and Great White (with the shark on the label)! These wines totally transformed the imagery of wine too – breaking down formal, even snobby, wine barriers in the then wine market.
In fifty years, their wines have progressed dramatically – whilst still firmly based on “international” grape varieties, they have identified and highlighted numerous delimited fine wine regions which can showcase these grapes to a world class level. But their future is somewhat uncertain as domestic sales decline and bulk wines in particular struggle in several markets, whilst issues of climate change and water scarcity could also have a serious impact. But, as an industry, they are strong marketeers and have established a plethora of outstanding wine regions which must be the two firm bedrocks for a successful future. And the UK remains Australia’s biggest and most important export market.
Have a look at the excellent selection in the PGW portfolio link. As ever, I will also highlight some stand out examples in the blog.
PETER GRAHAM WINES AUSTRALIAN SELECTION
The Australian wine industry is 200 years old when Gregory Blaxland became the first recorded producer to export wine in 1822 (records indicate that the first vines planted came from South Africa in 1788). And this set a trend as Australia remains one of the world’s largest exporters of wine. Today they export over 85 million cases of wine each year whilst domestic sales are around 55 million cases. But as production and domestic sales have declined in recent years, the focus on increasing quality and diversity of style has risen pro rata.
It was a Scotsman, James Busby, who emigrated there in 1824 and is considered the “father” of the Australian wine industry. In the 1830s he brought the first and most extensive collection of vine cuttings from both France and Spain. Receiving a grant to plant land he established his own 2,000 acre vineyard in The Hunter Valley. The focus in those days was very much towards the production of fortified wines, something which continued to hold sway well into the 20thCentury. By the 1850s though wines from renowned areas such as Adelaide Hills, Barossa Valley, and Geelong were being made and lauded. And by the 1870s and 80s Shiraz wines were winning awards at French Exhibitions and competitions.
Although technically every State makes wine it is the Southeastern corner (often referred to as “SEA”) – consisting of South Australia, New South Wales, and Victoria – which accounts for over 90% of production. Another important State for quality wine production is Western Australia where production accounts for around 5% of the overall total. There are around 60 delimited regions now covering 160,000 hectares of vine, with around 2,000 winemaking operations.
The key to most successful winemaking operations is about growing vines in as cool a spot as possible in what is a very hot country. Unfortunately, there are limited options for altitude elevation – although Adelaide, Hills, Eden Valley, Clare Valley, and Yarra Valley make the most of what they have.
This means that most vineyards are located close to the sea and rivers/lakes to take advantage of cooler micro climatic influences from water and on shore sea breezes. In addition, Australia suffers from ongoing shortages of water which means produces must vie with other crops producers – such as soft fruit farmers – for allocations of water for irrigation (and not always successfully sadly). Like many countries Australia has also launched a major new sustainability programme across the whole industry.
By contrast, there are three huge inland irrigation areas – Riverland, Murray Darling, and Riverina where vast quantities of grapes are grown for the bulk wine market – your classic “SEA” blends. And by law labelling laws are quite lenient – if a label says a single grape variety on it, it can include up to 15% of other grapes in the blend!
A Classic Vineyard shot – here in The Barossa Valley
White Varieties
Although technically 130 different grape varieties are cultivated in the country the bedrock of wines produced come from a handful of the mainstream international varietals. The most important and widely grown white variety is Chardonnay – and the standard now produced from this grape is the highest ever – gone are the days thankfully of “pineapple chunks” tropical fruit dominant, high alcohol, and over oaked examples - the wines are now much more refined, with lower alcohols, and better balanced – led by examples from Margaret River, Adeliade Hills, and Yarra Valley. By contrast very little Sauvignon Blanc is grown (not doubt due to the success and exports of near neighbour New Zealand) but Viognierplantings are gaining ground no doubt due the general interest and plantings of Rhône varietals. But there are also other white varietals plantings which are a bit of a paradox – more later about this.
A good example of this modern style of Chardonnay is the Robert Oatley Helmsman which at just 12.5% abv, and low key lightly toasted oak and citrus stone fruit notes really hits the mark.
https://petergrahamwines.com/p/19-chardonnay-helmsman
Black Varieties
The colour skew in Australia is not unsurprisingly towards red wine – and one variety is dominant in that regard – Shiraz(aka Syrah in France). In fact, Shiraz is easily the single most widely planted grape per se in the whole country at well over 40% share of all varieties. It has, in effect, made a name for Australia as well as the grape itself with top examples. Remarkably Australia possesses not only the oldest examples of Shiraz vines, but these are also the oldest vines of any variety known to exist on the plant. They produce small quantities of extremely concentrated fruit and are highly prized by growers.
An amazing example of Old Vine Shiraz – at around 150 years of age, growing on its own roots, and still bearing superbly concentrated fruit. These vines are the oldest known examples on the planet!
Stylistically it couldn’t be more different from its Northern Rhône spiritual heartland with rich, smooth blue and blackberry fruits, dried fruits, spice and liquorice qualities. The variety is grown in every region, but the following areas may be regarded as making stand out and individual examples in the hands of top producers.:
- Barossa and Eden Valleys
- Heathcote
- Hunter Valley
- Clare Valley
Top producers tend to focus on Shiraz as a single varietal expression, but it is also used extensively in blends – often with Cabernet Sauvignon – and particularly at more entry levels of pricing. It is also an important component in Australia’s copycat version of iconic Rhône wine Châteauneuf-du-Pape, where it is blended with both Grenache and Mourvèdre in varying proportions. These wines are often christened as “GSM” s in the country.
A classic example of Barossa Shiraz is the Samuels Collection from the highly regarded Yalumba producer and stable – lovely rich, fruity, spicy, and textural take.
https://petergrahamwines.com/p/yalumba-samuels-collection-barossa-shiraz
Pinot Noir in Australia?
As mentioned in last month’s blog on this variety Pinot Noir does not thrive in hot growing conditions so on paper Australia would not necessarily be on the radar for this grape. But again, it just goes to show how their industry has become more diverse and how cooler climate spots are coming into play – areas such as Yarra Valley, Mornington Peninsula, Geelong, and Island of Tasmania – all of whom are now building serious reputations for this grape. So, please try the excellent Pipers River Tasmanian example from Dalrymple – with its savoury red fruits, medium body and Burgundian touch – you might be surprised just how good it is!
https://petergrahamwines.com/p/19-pinot-noir-dalrymple
The Cabernet (Sauvignon), Sémillon, and Riesling Paradox
Such is the strength of, and favour towards, Shiraz that Cabernet Sauvignon plantings are about half as much even though the climate is ideal for its production. The variety tends to be used in a workhorse role and in blends but there are two examples where it is very much the lead grape, and the focus is on producing high quality Bordeaux blends in conjunction with Merlot in the blend. These two areas are Coonawarra in South Australia and Margaret River in Western Australia. Here high quality examples showcase just what the country is capable of when producers focus on this variety and apply subtle blending techniques. Try the Classic Coonawarra The Menzies – again from Yalumba for its vibrant cassis fruit, mellow oak, and velvety texture.
https://petergrahamwines.com/p/cabernet-sauvignon-the-menzies-yalumba
What is also interesting is how the country has developed a unique, early picked, style of bone dry, crisp, low alcohol, unoaked, citrus fruits wine from the Semillon grape – and principally in the Hunter Valley. A grape which normally produces richer and textural wines, along the lines of Chardonnay, and is the main grape behind the famous sweet of Sauternes. This amazing wine belies all you might think about and expect from white wine in general from Australia with a staggering capacity to age and evolve too.
And full marks too to Australia for championing the Riesling grape for so long – the one New World country to date to do so. First planted in the country in 1838 they have long made bone dry, crisp and steely examples, lower in alcohol and bursting with citrus lime fruit and vitality. Two regions in South Australia – Clare Valley and Eden Valley epitomise this exuberant style. Do try The Pewsey Vale Vineyard example from Eden Valley which showcases all these characteristics.
https://petergrahamwines.com/p/20-pewsey-vale-riesling
An Important Stylistic Trend
Following on from the notes on Semillon and Riesling from Australia they are also examples of an important overall trend in vine growing and winemaking which is that the industry is moving towards lower alcohol wines in general – both for reds and whites. Through earlier picking and selective winemaking techniques (eg use of yeast types) all dry table wines are moving in a downward direction regarding their ABV content.
Industry analysis shows that both red and white wines are tracking at 1-1.5% abv lower than 5 years ago, with no loss of ripeness or fruit.
A Final Note
Historically, Australia focused more on Fortified Wines than any other style which reflected the markets and drinking styles then. Though sales have inevitably declined they remain a genuine specialist for this category – most famously in the Victorian region of Rutherglen. Here, hedonistically sweet and intoxicating cask aged Muscats make wines of intense dried fruits and melted caramel – both a delicious after dinner drinks and ones of the few wines in the world which pair well with chocolate desserts!
The country continues to look at other varieties with some producers exploring Italian varietals such as Nebbiolo, Sangiovese, and Primitivo (Zinfandel), along with Spanish grapes such as Tempranillo. And they have seen what Argentina has achieved with Malbec, so plantings of this grape are growing too. They certainly have the climate to make successful wines from these, so it should be interesting to see how things evolve.
In addition, the Sparkling Wine industry is starting to produce some seriously good and refined examples. In cool climate areas where both Chardonnay and Pinot Noir succeed there is great potential to make Champagne style bottle fermented wines of real quality and style.
So, despite its understandable concerns regarding declining markets, climate change, and water management going forward I think the quality of wines coming out of Australia is arguably at an all-time high, and with ongoing, important stylistic tweaks - the financial, marketing, and sales incentives to focus on these factors is only likely to increase.
